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The plot thickens! I tried turning off the "ask for pages in English" setting, and it started working. Couldn't find a way to turn it off in Opera, so it didn't work there. Then I did some searching and found some discussions of this problem with Camino, including a comment that if one went to http://www.washingtonpost.com/national it worked just fine, which I found to be true even after turning the offending setting back to its original state. Go figure.