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Problem partially solved. In the view, I need to work in coordinates of the unscaled view because there is a scale transform already applied before it gets to that drawing code. So my little test where I used self.bounds was not working, and showed up when I was scaled < 1.

The other problem where the view was not drawing on load was solved by calling tileVisibleRect in viewDidLoad.

Now the only problem I have is that when the view is initially loaded, it does not allow scrolling. Working on that now...