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GMail decides what to show each browser so it's helpful to play around with various browser identities until one works. I've found that if I identify as Omniweb, I get a basic view. If I identify with Safari, I can't click on any messages to load them (shortcut keys work fine). The winner is the firefox identity. The only oddity I notice in checking mail with that identity is that the quick contacts (gtalk) panel at the side sticks out. Subtract it and it goes away.